Gracias, Buenos Aires

I finally crossed the Equator and spent a week in Buenos Aires, Argentina, sightseeing and shopping my way to worn-out feet, a interesting mix of memories, and not a few nice purchases. Here's what else I brought back - first, the bad news:

THE WORST OF BUENOS AIRES

3.  Niceties
Americans aren't good at it, either, but porteños (residents of BA) never say anything after bumping into you on the street (and I'm not talking about just brushing past your shoulder).  Granted, some of these "accidents" might be failed attempts at pickpocketing, which is prevalent in Buenos Aires, but most are not.

2.  Eating

There's some veggies under there somewhere...!

You can order salads and sides in restaurants, but among the entrees, there is a lack of healthy choices.  The vast majority are various types of red meat, especially steak, as Argentina is known for its beef (which probably belongs under the BEST OF BUENOS AIRES section).  And if you order meat, that's what you get: a big slab of meat on a plate - and frequently nothing else.  At a parilla (steakhouse), the meat is grilled, but there is a lot of cheese, butter, and cream in other dishes.  Part of this is due to a major Italian influence, as well as the many French cafes and restaurants.  (Strangely enough, obesity is not seen on the streets.) 

1.  Trashiness
Graffiti covers buildings everywhere, regardless of the level of affluence or style of architecture.  It's shocking at first.  Curb appeal is not a known concept; blending in and being inconspicuous seems more valued than setting oneself apart.  Only twenty percent of residents own their property, so pride of ownership is lacking.  Buildings which may be beautiful architecturally can nevertheless be rundown with doors or windows missing, or at least dirty.  Garbage can be found on the streets on holiday weekends, and dumpsters line the sidewalks.  Worst: as a general rule, dog owners do not pick up after their pets, so dog mierda is a very common sight on sidewalks everywhere, forcing you to constantly look down while you walk.

 

THE BEST OF BUENOS AIRES

5.  Architecture
Everywhere you look are beautiful tall buildings with wrought iron balconies; grand, heavy wooden doors.  Many of the buildings were built at the turn of the century (the 20th, not the 21st) and reflect Italian and French neoclassical influences.  Pity they aren't maintained so well (see above). For a nice summary of bonaerense architecture with photos, see A Gringo in Buenos Aires.

4.  Eating
The empanadas are fresh, delicious, and cheap.  The Malbec is plentiful and pleasing.  And the eating is such a huge part of the culture that in a restaurant, one is expected to linger after dinner rather than clearing the table for the next party.  You might have to wait a while for everything to happen, even to order, but it's nice to not be run out with a forced smile when the meal is over.

3.  Evita 

Eva Peron galvanized a whole nation without holding elective office.  She's on the 100 peso note.  People still leave flowers at her final resting place 60 years after her death.   President Cristina Fernandez Kirchner is sometimes compared to her, and Evita will probably remain the yardstick by which all future female leaders will be measured.  She's made the Argentine woman a strong figure, to say the least.

2.  Brio
The Italian spirit of the Argentine heritage comes through strongly in everyday interactions with the people.  The way both men and women kiss each other on the cheek when parting company.  Ending a face-to-face conversation with "ciao" (or chao in Spanish, I suppose) and a phone call with "un beso" ("a kiss").  Tango - luscious, sensual, and provocative - not just for tourism, but infused in the porteño culture.

1.  MEN
OMG - so many men in Buenos Aires look like they are, used to be, should have been, or are going to be, models.  Whether older, in their prime earning years, teens, or just kids, male beauty is disproportionately prevalent and stunning.  It's the same in Rome, so this is not surprising.

Next: The Most Notable Things About Buenos Aires